Artigas

We took a day trip to Artigas on Saturday, which is on the northern border of Uruguay. We did manage to cross the river and enter Brazil for a short time, but mostly just to say we had done it. Artigas is known for amethyst mines and other semi-precious stones (quartz and agates, mostly). We tried to find some amethysts ourselves, by crushing rocks along the side of the road. Alas, we didn’t have any luck, although we had fun throwing rocks and finding tarantulas and lizards underneath.

Following the advice of others, we found a purple shop in town that was known to have reasonable prices. We arrived just after our lunch, though, and found the doors closed for siesta time.

Fortunately, a woman came out of the shop next door and told us to go around the corner and ask the shop owner if he would open his doors for us. It turns out he lives behind the shop, and was more than happy to open the doors once he saw a group of gringos ready to spend their money. His shop was amazing, and it was even cooler once we found out that the shop owner actually owns the mine from which all the stones come from. He seemed very happy to talk with us, and pleased that we were interested in his work. He showed us not only his small storage room adjacent to the shop, but also walked us through his living quarters to show us his most impressive find that was stored in his garage.

We spend a good hour or two in the shop, browsing and figuring out what to buy. They were just packing up our purchases when a tour bus with 40 people showed up. The owner seemed a little nervous to have that many people in the shop with their swinging purses, but laughed with us when we all agreed that their purchases would probably be worthwhile.

Mis Padres

I’ve had some extra help arrive, armed with temperature sensors, rain gear, and a penchant for good food. I picked them up at the bus station about a week ago, after having a near miss of them getting off one stop to early. Luckily, one of the bus staff told them “No, no!” and waved them back on the bus. When they arrived at the Tacuarembó bus station, he gave them a thumbs up to indicate this was the place they wanted to be.

They’ve helped a lot at the field sites, with installing ibuttons and using GPS to mark locations of all my research plots and the fences built around them. Rain or shine, they are happy to help.

Their willingness to help might be due to the fact that we have been enjoying some awesome dinners here at the house. They’ve now had an asado dinner, as well as homemade ravioli, and some great desserts.

In addition, we usually make it back to the house for lunch. Just yesterday we enjoyed homemade gnocchi with tomato sauce, and then had dessert as well. It’s a little hard to get motivated after lunch, but I guess that’s the price we pay for good food.

Mis Parceles en el Campo

We’ve done quite a bit of field work, installing temperature sensors at all my field sites. My parents arrived with the sensors, and then we found the high-tech equipment with which to install them at the field sites once they arrived here. Our “high-tech” instrumentation involves aluminum tags, a plastic funnel or bottle top, and aluminum foil. The local technicians here call them little sombreros.

After installing some of them at the sites, Juliana came out with us, and we realized that they would be easy bait for the cattle. Apparently underestimating their stupidity, I figured they would nudge them or poke them, but not actually eat them. Evidently I was wrong, as Juliana explained in Spanish, by demonstrating an ibutton in a stomach – and we really aren’t interested in the temperature as a sensor moves through a cow’s digestive system.

So, Plan B was to have Gerardo and company install posts at each of the sites, and we would hang the air temperature sensors from the tops of these. To be safe, they wrapped the posts in barbed-wire (or bob-wire, depending on who you talk to…I’m naming no names) so the cows would be less temped to try and knock the posts over.

Apparently there is no limit to the amount of work Gerardo and his guys will do. They have been extremely kind and gracious, and completely open to any ideas I have about adding work to their schedule. It’s been so nice to have their help, and also Juliana’s, who helps me coordinate all of this.

Mas Ñandús

We’ve had good luck in the past few days and have been able to spot a large herd of ñandús in the morning on the way out to the field sites. Seeing one or two at a time is pretty hilarious, especially when they run beside the truck, but spotting a herd is almost surreal.

We’ve seen between 11 and 21 in this large herd, depending on the day. If it wasn’t weird enough to see odd-looking ostrich creatures gathered together in a group, it’s even funnier when their group is flanked by horses or cows.

The livestock generally are pretty nonchalant about our truck driving on the road near them, but the ñandús take off like bats out of hell. I’m not quite sure why they panic so much, but it makes me laugh every time.

We’ve even had the pleasure of watching a couple ñandús that seem to be stuck in the fenced area near the house. Most of the time they’re pretty laid back, wandering the area and plucking grass as they go, but once we saw them run around in a large circle at breakneck speed while the horses in the middle just continued to eat their morning grass.

La Planta Industrial

The other day we were able to arrange a tour at the plywood mill with the construction manager. After spending more than five weeks in forests and grasslands, breathing fresh air, and listening to birds and livestock all day, it was weird to spend time in such an industrial setting.

The mill makes plywood, and recently completed construction to generate all their own power using their waste. They make so much power, in fact, that they not only run their entire mill off the grid, but they actually sell some back to the grid. It’s nice to see measures like this, which are not legal requirements, down here in a place where environmentalism hasn’t really taken off. It seems like our industry prides itself on being ahead of the curve on some things like this, which makes me feel better about being involved, however tangentially.

To make plywood, a machine strips wood off a tree log as it spins – kind of like an apple peeler. These “sheets” then go through many processes as they are glued into several layers and dried into sheets of plywood.

I didn’t understand the whole process, but it was kind of fascinating to see some of the process, and the people working here. My favorite part was watching the machine that wrapped the pallets of plywood in plastic – it was like a huge cellophane roll, and both the pallet of plywood and the machine spin around to get them completely covered and protected for shipment.

Oh, and one more tidbit: there’s a snack cart in the parking lot for the mill guys. I’m guessing the guys here enjoy being able to buy fresh sandwiches and desserts when they feel the need.

El Sol

We’ve had much milder weather this season compared to last. We still marvel at the amount of horizon we’re able to see, and how awesome the sky usually looks. I know I’ll miss the sunrises and sunsets and clear blue sky that we see so commonly here. These shots are all from La Corona – at night or in the morning, from the side yard or the backyard. These are a few of the several reasons which make me happy to have research down here in Uruguay.

Mis comidas favoritas

We have had some fantastic food at La Corona, but I do have some favorites, and Sonia knows it. She makes a show with some things, especially flan with dulce de leche, because I will enjoy anything with that delicious sauce.

Buñuelos: little fried bits of goodness. These are pieces of dough made out of cooked rice, some flour and egg, and cheese, seasonings, and whatever else Sonia likes to add. We had some recently with some fresh fish that were made up of rice and spinach, and were fan-freaking-tastic. The more simple ones, of rice and cheese, are also fantastic. They’ve been typical accompaniments with sautéed or fried fish – apparently Uruguay’s version of fish and chips.

Mousse: Sonia’s mainstay dessert for us. I love lemon mousse with strawberries. I love lemon mousse plain. I love chocolate mousse. I love dulce de leche mousse. I love whatever toppings and addition Sonia is inspired to use.

Cheesy Creamy Pasta: this really needs no explanation. Sonia often spends part of the weekend in downtown Tacuarembó, leaving Kike in charge of hosting duties. She always leaves some food behind for him to heat up, or on this occasion, to take back with him for our dinner when he left Tacuarembó after a day trip. He brought to the table a piping hot dish of baked pasta – slathered in cream, cheese, and slices of ham. I was in a very happy food coma after this one.

Mas Amuerzos

Holy crap. We thought we had it pretty good with field lunches. We’ve finished our major data collection for the season, and have had a couple days of lunches at La Corona, instead of in the field. Boy are we full.

The first lunch we had at La Corona was a heavy meal. Sonia made us a freshly baked meat loaf (pan de carne). It was complete with chopped red pepper and hard boiled eggs, which is typically added to many meats and salads. That was served with mashed potatoes, and we thought we were full from that.

Sonia then brings out some freshly baked homemade apple tarts. She had spent the morning baking up a storm.

Another day, we had arroz con pollo with a curry twist – rice, chicken, peas, carrots, and a subtle curry powder. It was really good, and a nice comfort food type of meal.

The other day we had another fantastic lunch – this time with two impressive homemade dishes. Sonia brought out a pan of bubbling scalloped potatoes, and we thought that was impressive enough. Then she returned with a platter full of Milanese: basically, chicken fried steak topped with a slice of tomato, ham, and mozzarella, and then slathered with tomato sauce. It was fantastic.

We finished lunch off with vanilla pudding – which was not only topped with a little chocolate syrup, but also a smiley faced chocolate cookie. J

Me Gusta Mucho La Corona

There are a lot of things I love about La Corona, and I’m pretty sure Scott’s okay with being here, too. The Garcia family are awesome, the food is fantastic, desserts are wonderful, and the setting is perfect. I just thought I’d share a bit of what we see day to day.

The view is fantastic, since La Corona sits on a hilltop overlooking a huge expanse. Lately, the mist settles in early morning, and doesn’t burn off until later in the morning, so we’ve had a pretty ethereal view.

We’ve also got a view on the lawn itself. Kike has been weedwacking “La Corona” into the lawn right outside the back deck. I’m curious how many people actually see it, since there are only a few guests that come and go from La Corona, and small planes overhead are very rare. Still, it’s nice that he spends the time. J

Then there’s these two, who entertain daily while we put our field boots on or walk around the house. They usually follow us around the property if they’re not already busy trying to sucker the family out of some food or are indisposed with a nap.

And this fellow, this morning, was hanging out by the field truck. Last time there was a bottle fed calf that lived nearby, and I have a feeling it’s the same story with this one. He lets you get pretty close before he wanders off, and he’s still pretty young. He was a nice start to our morning.

Muchos Gauchos

We’ve seen a lot of gauchos this field season, herding cattle and moving sheep from pasture to pasture. Most of the time we spot them along the highway, and give each other a long-distance wave.

The other morning, however, they were moving cattle right at La Corona. We were heading down the road, about to start our journey to a field site, when we encountered the oncoming traffic.

We backed up to give them room so they could move the herd across the road over to the loading area. I’m sure the gauchos were amused and/or perplexed why we had our cameras out and were smiling. I’m fairly certain we’re known as the Crazy Americans who stay at La Corona.

Un Asado

After work, one day earlier this week, Sonia told us we’d be having an asado with a large group, and that we’d be having lamb. We asked her about it, and instead of telling us anything, she ushered us out the back door of the living room and to the water tower. Inside the room at the bottom of the water tower is apparently a room with meat hooks. And inside, was the next day’s dinner.

Sonia and Kike had two lambs dry aging in there. One was for the asado, and the other to be quartered up and frozen to be used later. It was actually pretty awesome to see a full, butterflied lamb on the grill.

The lamb asado was even better than the beef asado. The meat was cooked perfectly, and seasoned really well with salt, and a squirt bottle of Kike’s mixture of olive oil, garlic, and fresh rosemary and oregano that he picked from the beds at the house.

Accompanying every asado is a huge array of side dishes. We enjoyed candied sweet potatoes, sweetened onions, potato salad, beets, pickled vegetables, and a salad of lettuce, tomato, and hearts of palm.

As an aside, we’ve been paying attention to Uruguayan table manners, and this group afforded us an opportunity to learn, as they were all locals from Montevideo. It’s completely acceptable to leave the table and grab seconds…or thirds. Which is great when the food is awesome. It’s also perfectly fine to scrape your plate over the large “discard” plate in the middle of the table in order to make room for more food. And it’s completely anticipated that, after stuffing yourself with multiple helpings of meat and sides, you must eat dessert.

Postres

Dessert is always interesting here, and I'm always curious to see what will follow up our meals.

One standard dessert, and it never gets old, is flan. Sonia makes it herself, and always accompanies it with a big serving of dulce de leche. Surprisingly, she hasn't started making jokes about serving me "light" dulce de leche. Apparently it's important to maintain a nice figure for your husband.

Similar to flan is espuma, which is like a peach flavored flan. It's a thick custard like flan, but usually very chilled and fresh tasting.

Last night we had a torta coco, which was a coconut cake. It had a dulce de leche filling (yum) and was topped with homemade whipped cream.

The other day following lunch, we had candied figs. The figs came from Sonia's family's country home, and I assume she canned these herself. They were in a thick simple syrup, and were fantastic. They're Sonia's favorite, too.
Another fruit dessert we've had is wine-stewed pears. Sonia peeled the pears and then simply stewed them in red wine, and possibly syrup. She always serves them with gelado, just in case they aren't enough on their own.
Now I'm going to have to find a snack, because these photos are making me hungry.